Monday, December 7, 2009

Honor and Tradition

I recently wrote a research paper for my Islamic thought class about the religious issues surrounding "honor" killing and violence in Jordan. For those of you that don't know, honor crimes are crimes, generally murder, committed against female members of a family by male members. Typically the woman is accused of doing something (reports range from adultery to failing to serve a meal on time, filing for divorce or talking to strangers) that has brought shame on her family. To restore the family honor in the eyes of the community male family members kill the woman, literally washing away the dishonor with her blood.

My research made it pretty clear that this practice has absolutely nothing to do with the teachings of Islam. Study of Qur'anic verses as well as the Hadith makes it clear that Islam categorically prohibits murder and that God only places the burden of dishonor on the person who has sinned and no one else. Every Muslim organization I could find also condemned the practice, including the Muslim brotherhood.

But yet, the practice continues. Most of the perpetrators admit that they knew they were going against their religion when they committed the crime. But ideas about honor and revenge and pride are so deeply rooted in tradition, particularly here in Jordan that not only is a man able to kill his sister for being handed a strangers phone number, but the law- made by mostly powerful tribal leaders, allows him to do so. Its a problem, one that Jordanians are discussing more often now that human rights organizations and the queen herself are challenging the laws that provide impunity for honor murderers.

Anyway, its finals, so I don't have a lot of time, but here's a really interesting article I found about one of those discussions. It does a good job of not taking the "hardline western media here to point out all the problems in the barbaric eastern world" perspective and actually reporting on the problem as it exists in the Jordanian context. So, in the interests of time and my grades I'm going to steal someone elses reporting and post the story below.

All my love,
Caddie

Queen Rania of Jordan takes on hardliners over honour killings

Queen Rania of Jordan is challenging Islamic hardliners by supporting tougher sentences for men who commit 'honour killings'.

Queen Rania of Jordan is challenging Islamic hardliners by supporting tougher sentences for men who commit 'honour killings'
Queen Rania of Jordan is challenging Islamic hardliners by supporting tougher sentences for men who commit 'honour killings'

On one side is the fashionably dressed Queen Rania of Jordan, an elegant symbol of progressive values for Arab women. On the other are her country's conservative social and religious leaders.

At stake is a political test case for reform in the Middle East, one that pits demands for greater democracy against the need to end the scandal of so-called honour killings of women.

Queen Rania, who regularly appears without head-scarf, let alone hijab, has given her quiet support to women's rights groups who want to change laws amounting to legal impunity for men involved in honour killings.

But standing against is are another symbol of the country's attempts to show a progressive face. Jordan's MPs, who have been given more power to hold the government and royal family to account than in other Arab countries, have shown little enthusiasm for the moves.

"This whole issue is being exaggerated, and the reason behind it is not innocent," said Sheikh Hamza Mansour, leader of the parliament's Islamic Action Front. His coalition of Islamist and tribal representatives has so far blocked an attempt to introduce tougher sentences for men who have killed their sisters and daughters for bringing "shame" on their families.

"It's as if the government is giving up our personality to turn us into a Westernised society," he said.

The practice of honour killing is more often associated with impoverished and remote areas of countries like Pakistan than cities like Amman, Jordan's sophisticated and Westernised capital.

But it was in Amman's outskirts that Abu Ishmael and his three brothers recently picked up their sister after a call from her husband, took her home, and stabbed her to death.

The squalour surrounding her home in al-Baq'a, where third-generation Palestinian refugee families live in slum-like conditions and where drug-taking and other social problems are rife, is a breeding ground for domestic violence. Pressure to conform to traditional customs is also strong.

When Abu Ishmael and his brothers arrived at their sister's house, they were greeted by catcalls from her relatives, goading them to carry out the killing. "Are you men?" they shouted. "Show us you are men."

The brothers knew what they were expected to do. They bundled their sister into the back of their van, and drove her home in silence.

Within half an hour, she was dead. When her body was handed over to the police, it had 28 stab wounds, including a fatal blow to her heart.

Abu Ishmael insists he had nothing to do with the killing - he was, he says, still outside the door when it happened. The police have arrested two of his brothers.

"I was angry with her," Abu Ishmael told The Sunday Telegraph as he sat in his lawyer's office. "I looked at her in the rear-view mirror as I drove. She said nothing, but she had a barbarous look."

His sister's crime was simple. Her husband complained that she had left the house on the middle of the night carrying her 16-month-old baby son. The police had found her wandering the streets half an hour later.

The dishonour such wanton behaviour brought on her own family, it seemed, could only be expunged by her death.

The sister, a mother of eight though aged just 37, thus became one of an estimated 5,000 women worldwide who will die this year in the name of honour, with their killers likely to face little if any punishment.

Jordan may be a Bedouin society, home to a royal family portrayed in romantic fashion as Peter O'Toole's allies in the film Lawrence of Arabia. But it is now home to more human rights groups and luxury hotels than tents and camels.

King Abdullah, Rania's husband for 16 years, trained at Sandhurst and is said to speak better English than Arabic. The queen regularly appears in glossy celebrity magazines, and is one of the world's best-known users of Twitter, updating followers with details of the latest Hollywood "chick-flicks" she has watched with her children.

For her, it is deeply offensive that the killing of women not only appears to be condoned, but seems to be on the rise: the number of deaths reported, currently between 20 and 25 a year, is increasing.

Sentences remain low, often as little as six months to three years in jail.

The government is introducing a special tribunal to hear honour killing cases, but a parliamentary alliance has so far blocked attempts to change two articles of the legal code. The first is article 340, which allows an "in flagrante" defence to a man who kills his wife and her lover if he finds them in bed together. It has only ever been used once. More important is article 98, a "crime of passion" defence, which is commonly used and gives reduced sentences to those who claim they commit violence in the fury of the moment.

The government wants a minimum penalty of five years even under this defence, but is coming under vociferous attack.

"We are not for taking the law into your own hands," said Sheikh Hamza, an affable, white-bearded man who is among the government's more measured critics. He insists that Sharia, or Islamic law, does not support honour killings.

"But we believe there are political forces which stand behind this issue, and they are trying to destroy the family."

Social researchers say that honour killings are mostly carried out in the poorer, more conservative parts of Jordanian society and in those at its margins. Those include Palestinian families living in semi-permanent refugee camps, like Abu Ishmael's sister.

The issue has risen up the political agenda for more than a decade, ever since a woman journalist named Rana Husseini started reporting what had previously been a taboo subject.

The "dishonour" involved was not just committing adultery, or having a secret boyfriend. Women have been attacked for talking to a stranger; in January, a 13-year-old girl was killed by her 17-year-old brother because she had been given a piece of paper with a phone number on it.

In the most seemingly outrageous cases, women who have been raped by relatives - cousins, or in one case a brother - are killed by the family, while the rapist is left unharmed, since the dishonour is felt to be attached to the woman. Most recently, in August, a 16-year-old girl who became pregnant after being raped by her cousin was allegedly killed by the cousin's father.

A study has found that nearly all the perpetrators questioned were aware that what they had done was a breach of Islamic as well as state law.

Researchers found that families often forced the weakest or youngest brother to carry out the killing, so he would be most likely to get a reduced sentence.

Abu Ishmael said the pressure from the brother-in-law's family was "so great". Unlike many of those questioned in the study, he said he is full of remorse.

Police inquiries have revealed his sister's husband had not told the brothers the entire truth. They allege he had beaten his wife severely with his belt, and then kicked her out. He only called for help when he realised she had taken his baby son with her.

Yet Abu Ishmael does not appear angry. Instead, the whole business remains to him a matter-of-fact quandary, one he seemed to think that any family might face, when addressing the competing possibilities of family disgrace.

"If she really had left the house of her own free will she would have deserved what happened to her," he said, with a sad shake of his head. "But it appears not."

Monday, November 23, 2009

The Best Medicine

I used to love this ventriloquist named Jeff Dunham... not literally, I just loved his act. He's really funny and his puppets are so lifelike. But when he introduced a new character, a Halloween skeleton to which he had attached a turban and the name "Achmed the Dead Terrorist" I was horrified. The new puppet, from its fake Middle Eastern accent, to its thick eyebrows and back story (being a dead suicide bomber) was the literal embodiment of every horrible Arab stereotype. I didn't want to watch the segment, but my ex pulled the "why are you always so up-tight" card so I stayed and I watched it. And I laughed, hard. It was hilarious.

A few weeks later one of my favorite radio stations did a 30 second sound bite joke: a call-in to a suicide bomber hotline, where instead of talking you out of killing yourself, they talk you into it. Also hilarious.

I felt guilty for thinking so. I hate (really really really) hate stereotyping, generalizations and any conception that allows you to categorize a diverse number of unique individuals into a faceless group. For me, one of the hardest parts of coming to the Arab world was getting to know the wonderful people here and realizing how wrong our perceptions of them in the U.S. are, and as I've discussed before, how wrong theirs are of us. The gap of understanding between the world I'm living in and the one I came from is so big and so empty that it defies words, even for me. So how can it possibly be okay to joke about it?

But lately I've started to think I had it backwards. Comedy acts like Jeff Dunham's dead terrorist, or the Axis of Evil comedy tour don't reinforce the stereotypes that divide the West from the East, they mock them. They highlight how utterly ridiculous they are, and we laugh because we realize how stupid and outrageous those perceptions have become. And laughing, that's healthy. Especially when both sides are laughing at the same thing. If we can leave behind our American or Arab identities for even one minute to be able to laugh at the same thing- even if that thing is the ridiculous misconceptions and stereotypes we have about one another- then maybe, for that one minute, we have something in common. And maybe we'll realize it.
Maybe, in that one minute those "other" people in that stereotyped group will become just like us. Sharing a joke. Its not much to have in common, but you have to start somewhere.

So I have changed my position. I think its okay to laugh. I think its good to laugh. I think maybe, if politicians and journalists and economists and definitely terrorists laughed more we'd be a hell of a lot better off than we are today.

So here's my challenge to you. I'm posting three videos. The first one is Jeff Dunham's Achmed the Dead Terrorist, discussed above. The second one is the Axis of Evil Comedy Tour's Maz Jiobrani. He is an Iranian American comedian who has succeeded in making both Middle Eastern and American audiences cry they were laughing so hard. Not to brag or anything but he'll be in Amman next week and guess who's got tickets... ha ha! Anyway, the third is a video my (Jordanian) friend filmed last semester with an American kid who was in my program.

The first video is apretty straight forward example of us laughing at our perceptions of them. And believe me they can laugh at it too, they think that puppet is hilarious. The second one makes light of situations and problems that impact us both. The third one is the challenge. It is basically Jordanians making fun of American fear and ignorance of the Arab world. Its a spoof of a terrorist hostage ransom tape. The "terrorists" are two of my very good friends - their names are Yezan and Khalil, holding fake machine guns in front of a Jordanian flag- (not a Palestinian flag which doesn't have a white star). They are not speaking Arabic, they're speaking gibberish and the kid they've got on his knees is laughing.

So lets see - can we laugh at ourselves? Can we laugh at how ridiculous this whole thing has gotten and how completely crazy and unfounded our fear has become? I hope so. Enjoy.

Love you all!
Caddie

P.S. - I'm rating these videos R, just a heads up


Video 1: Achmed! The Dead Terrorist
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uwOL4rB-go

Video 2: Maz Jobrani, Axis of Evil Commedy Tour:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYlaIxNX01Q

Video 3: Yezan and Khalil, being the crazy shabab they are
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=533149033489&subj=20013394

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Here's to Arabic

I apologize in advance, because today's post will probably leave some of you either bored or bewildered. If you find yourself feeling either of these things after reading the first sentence, feel free to stop reading, it won't hurt my feelings.

But let me explain myself. In about a minute, I'm going to make the argument that learning a new language is a lot like dating a new person. It is my guess that I'll loose about half of you because you've been married for like 150 years (just kidding, but a long time, lots of happy marriages in my family- that's a good thing) and you don't remember much about dating a new person. The other half of you, though you may have started dating someone recently, probably haven't started a new language since middle or early high school and may not remember what its like. So you, dear reader, probably don't have much to relate to in this post. But, even if you don't, maybe you should stick around, because if you did either or both of these things a long time ago, this post could evoke long buried memories and you might still enjoy it. Either way, this is my blog and if, every once in a while, I want to use it as my own personal diary and ramble to my little heart's content about my wonderful, beautiful, evil, infuriating boyfriend (Arabic), I'm going to do that. And for those of you that have dated someone new and started a new language recently- read on because seriously- the two experiences are so similar!

So when you start learning your first new language it's like falling in love for the first time. Every new thing you learn is so exciting and interesting and cool. It seems so beautiful and so perfect. That's how it was when I was learning Spanish, and, really, it wasn't so different when I started learning Arabic either. You just can't wait to know more.

But then, things start to get serious. You start to commit to the language. You start to realize how complicated the language actually is. This is both good and bad. Its still exciting and with your first language you're usually optimistic. As you know more of the language, like with a new person, it becomes more and more your own. You're proud of it. Like, oh, yeah, that hot guy over there, he's with me. Oh, yeah, that beautiful language someone walking by was just speaking, I understood that. Its cool. But its also hard. You have days where you think its just impossible and that you're never going to become fluent (not sure what the allegorical dating equivalent of that would be... married?) and where you just want to quit. And sometimes you do. Or sometimes you hit a wall and its just over (for example, high school ends and you stop taking classes). And you're sad. And you miss the language. And then you start to forget it and that makes you sad too.

But, maybe, some time passes and you meet a new language, Arabic, or whatever. And, like the first, Spanish for me, its beautiful and exciting. But this time, you've been hurt before, and so you're a little more careful. Nevertheless, you jump in and you start dating Arabic. You're less optimistic, but you also commit sooner because you're older now and you've done this before. And, I swear, this is exactly like dating, you start to compare your new language to your old language. You're thinking, "Oh, that's not how Spanish would have done that, that's not what Spanish would have said, Spanish would have thought that was funny..." and, I'm not kidding, that actually makes you sad. You literally miss the old language, because it had become familiar and you understood it and, damn it, you have to pee and you would have known how to ask where the bathroom was in Spanish!

But, with time you start to understand Arabic more and more, and you actually start to forget Spanish. You stop throwing small Spanish words into otherwise Arabic sentences (okay, that part doesn't really translate to dating). Then, one day, you're in love and happy again! Unfortunately, studying Arabic is somewhat like dating a guy with emotional baggage, a crazy family and a drinking problem, so I haven't actually gotten to that last stage yet. But I'm telling myself I will so I don't go crazy.

Or (and this is probably the conclusion you have reached if by some miracle you're still reading this) studying Arabic 30+ hours a week and still getting yelled at for not practicing enough has, in fact, made me crazy and that's why I just spent half an hour comparing linguistic study to dating.

Crazy or not, its ridiculous that I've spent this much time thinking about this. But Arabic is such a huge part of my life here it is almost impossible not to think about it this much. Anyway, because Arabic is such a hard, beautiful, complicated, amazing language and it is such an important part of my life right now, I really think it would be wrong not to have at least one blog post dedicated to it. So here's to you, Arabic. I love you and I really really really hate you.

Loooove (Aheeeebik in Arabic),
Caddie

Thursday, November 5, 2009

The Two Sided Mirror

One of the biggest challenges of being an international affairs major (and a human being) is attempting to break out of the egocentric mindset that allows you to believe that your own way of thinking is the only way of thinking. I have spent the last two or three years of my life actively trying to do that.

But clearly, I have failed. Because, though I've spent copious amounts of time, energy and research looking at how and why Americans perceive the Arabs, it had never once, until very recently occurred to me to take a closer look at how Arabs perceive Americans. International affairs, more particularly foreign policy, through the American perspective is a one sided mirror. We only consider how we look at the world, how we impact the world, how we act on the world. We don't really talk about how they see us. And that includes me.

But a few days ago the topic came up in class. One of my Jordanian professors asked us what people on the street talk to us about and what that says about their perceptions of us. Politically, the answers aren't all that interesting. They pretty much universally hate Bush and universally adore Obama. And they expect you to agree with them on that or you may have problems. There is also a weirdly widely held belief that 9/11 was perpetrated by the U.S. government. There was a quasi-compelling documentary called Loose Change made a few years ago that made that argument and it must have been really popular in the Arab world because I've heard this from multiple people. And forget arguing with them, they're pretty sure about this.

But anyway, Arabs, again almost universally, also have no problem separating the American people from their government. And their perceptions of us as a people are very interesting.

They tend to think that America is an epicenter of technology, education and wealth. But they also see us as morally corrupted. Which basically means they watch western TV shows, particularly soap operas and draw their conclusions about American societal values from there. But their reactions to their perception of our culture aren't condescending or disgusted. Its more like they pity us. They think we lead sad, empty lives, with no real familial or religious connections and they feel bad for us. Frequent questions about home include things like: "How many people do you know that had babies when they were 16?" "Are your parents divorced, do you come from a broken home?" "Does your dad make you pay him to live in his house?" Or other such ridiculousness.

In Arab culture, its pretty common for families of three generations to all live together. Male children, if they're unmarried sometimes don't leave their parents home until their late 30s or early 40s. Female children are very strongly discouraged from leaving home at all if they are unmarried and their parents are still alive. The American emphasis on leaving home and establishing independence at a young age shocks them, not unlike the way the hijab (head covering) shocks us.

A study (http://www.mafhoum.com/press10/290C31.pdf) about Arab perceptions of American society was conducted at the University of Jordan (where I go to school) of 10,000 respondents and the results pretty much supported what we had experienced among our friends and host families. It was also interesting to see that the results showed that most Arabs don't see their world and ours in terms of religious or cultural tension and they definitely don't believe in Huntington's Clash of Civilizations. Their problems with the west are purely political and their perceptions of the American people are much more ambivalent than we would probably guess. And, at least for the vast majority of them, their perceptions of Americans don't stop them from following up the inevitable "where are you from?" with an exclamation of "Ah! You are most welcome from America!"

And sorry, but I always feel compelled to respond in kind, so we may or may not have a couple hundred Jordanian taxi drivers and shopkeepers visiting us in the U.S. in the future on my invitation.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Pictures from Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum, Syria and Lebanon


Beirut, Lebanon

The bus to Lebanon


The mosque in Damascus



Hmm... some of the group and some random Syrian guy who wanted to take a picture with Americans in Damascus




The streets of Old City Damascus- the oldest continually inhabited city in the world





The hostel in Damascus- 20 bucks a night baby!






Kim, Caroline and I in the cab in Damascus

Petra













The hike to Petra
I named him Saddam Hussein. Ironically, he was very sweet





















The Beddouin camp at Wadi Rum
























Me on the camel in the desert












The boys trying (and failing) to be Arab

















































Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Obama's Prize for Peace: The World Weighs In...

Okay, I really didn't want to do this, because I am torn about it myself, and I think it is news that, hardly a week after breaking, is in very great danger of becoming over-discussed and clouding out real world issues. However, I can't help myself. So if I can't avoid it all together, I'm at least going to try to take a new spin on the topic.

Generally speaking, I support Obama. This is primarily because foreign policy is the single most important political issue in my book and Obama has been very good for American foreign policy. However, I am also a big fan of protecting ideas that matter. Don't go saying "I love you" to people you don't love, because then it loses it's meaning and importance with people you do love. Don't give away to just anyone a prize that has, for decades, been globally respected and offered it's recipients additional leverage to continue their work. It might lose that global respect and weight.

In the past, the prize has been awarded for the great contributions to world peace that the recipient has already made, not that they are expected to make. The last sitting U.S. president to receive it was Wilson for establishing the United Nations, for God's sake. So let's be frank. The U.S. president does not deserve the Nobel Prize for Peace. Yet. He might, someday in the future, when and if he accomplishes all that he hopes to.

With this in mind, the response of the Americans was less than shocking. Like anything else, we turned it into a party war. The Democrats defended the award, the republicans balked and then laughed at it, and the leaders promised that it would be used as a call to action. Blah. Blah. Blah. So, I wondered: what did the rest of the world think? Our friends? Our enemies? So here's an article from Al-Jazeera (again, trying to remove myself from the boundaries of the western media) on what the world leaders and, more subtly, the international press, thought of the announcement. Happy reading.

All my love,
Caddie

Obama: I do not deserve Nobel prize

Barack Obama, the US president, has said he is "surprised and deeply humbled" after being awarded the Nobel Peace Prize for 2009, less than a year after taking office.

Speaking in Washington, Obama said he did "not feel that I deserve to be in the company of so many of the transformative figures who have been honoured by this prize".

The Nobel Committee in Oslo, the Norwegian capital, said that the award recognised Obama's attempts to foster international peace and create a world without nuclear weapons.

Obama will give his $1.4m reward for winning the Nobel Peace Prize to charity, the AFP news agency reported a US official as saying.

No decision has yet been taken on exactly which organisations will benefit, the official said.

'Mutual respect'

South Africa's Archbishop Desmond Tutu, awarded the prize himself in 1984, hailed the award as "a magnificent endorsement for the first African-American president." But world reaction to the decision has been mixed, with the Taliban in Afghanistan saying it was absurd to give the prize to Obama when he had ordered 21,000 extra troops to Afghanistan this year...

Taliban criticism

The Taliban condemned the decision saying that Obama has "not taken a single step towards peace in Afghanistan".

However, Hamid Karzai, the Afghan president, congratulated Obama, calling the announcement "appropriate".

An aide to Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, the Iranian president, said the award should prompt Obama to begin to end injustice in the world.

"We hope that this gives him the incentive to walk in the path of bringing justice to the world order," Ali Akbar Javanfekr, Ahmadinejad's media aide, said.

"We are not upset and we hope that by receiving this prize he will start taking practical steps to remove injustice in the world.

Yukio Hatoyama, the Japanese president, and Angela Merkel, the German chancellor, both said the prize should encourage everyone to help Obama rid the world of nuclear weapons.

"I think the peace prize was given with such a hope," Hatoyama told reporters on a visit to Beijing.

Merkel said Obama had shifted the tone towards dialogue in a very short time.

"There is still much left to do, but a window of possibility has been opened," she said in Leipzig.

'Extraordinary efforts'

Obama, 48, wins the award while still being the commander-in-chief of US-led wars in Afghanistan and Iraq.

"Only very rarely has a person to the same extent as Obama captured the world's attention and given its people hope for a better future," Thorbjoern Jagland, the head of the Nobel committee, said.

"His diplomacy is founded in the concept that those who are to lead the world must do so on the basis of values and attitudes that are shared by the majority of the world's population.

"Obama has, as president, created a new climate in international politics.

"Multilateral diplomacy has regained a central position, with emphasis on the role that the United Nations and other international institutions can play."

Saturday, October 10, 2009

The View from the Other Side

Hi loved ones!

My birthday last week was sad without you all now, hearing about the snow I am definitely homesick. Oh, and side note- I'm now on Twitter and Skype (I know, that took a pathetically long time) so look me up.

Now, down to business. Just a forewarning, this post is going to be controversial. But, for me, this has always been a big fat question mark on the face of American foreign policy and I came here to get the other side of any number of stories that didn't make sense from the American perspective. If someone offers me one, I'm going to report it. Please understand that I'm not selling this as fact. If this were a news story, the lead would be, "A credible source has recently suggested..." But, fact or not, I think its a good topic to open for discussion. Which, since you all (except Becky) kind of suck at commenting here on the blog, I hope you have over your own dinner tables.

As those of you that have been in college know, there are two kinds of professors out there. There's the nice, normal, professional ones that really aren't any different from the rest of us, except that they're extremely well versed on one particular topic... or at least you hope they are or you're blowing a ton of money on their class. Then there are the professors that walk a very thin line. They are either totally brilliant or totally crazy. It is generally very difficult to tell which and, more often than not, it's both. In my experience, and I'm the daughter of a schizophrenic, so I would know, extreme intelligence and insanity often go hand in hand. My source on the story I am about to deliver is just such a professor. He's either brilliant, or crazy, proving that the above is universal, because he is definitely Jordanian. But, being something of an expert on crazy myself, I am tempted to think that he's more of the former. I know for sure that he as a Ph.D in economics and that he was dean of his department at the University of Jordan. Anyway, he is the primary source for this post, so do with it what you will...

Six years ago the United States invaded Iraq. At the time they told us that the invasion was an attempt to remove an evil dictator who had not been open to negotiation, had access to weapons of mass destruction and had ignored warnings from the global community. Actually, if you check the books, none of that gives another state the right to violate sovereignty, but alright fine, these were the post 9-11 Bush years, and that is a discussion for a different day. But, and I'm just regurgitating what we already know, when we get into Iraq, we find (shockingly) that there are no weapons of mass destruction. No anthrax. Not a drop of small pox. Hmm.

Here, it is interesting to note that BEFORE the invasion of Iraq a number of stories were published in the Washington Post (http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/wp-dyn/A58127-2004Aug11?language=printer) questioning the evidence that Iraqi WMDs existed. Crazy thing. Turns out they didn't. Further, in the 1960s the U.S. government was able to discover easily the weapons held by the Cuban government without ever invading Cuba. It seems impossible that in 2003, the same government, with God knows how much more money and technology at its fingertips, would be unable to gather the same kind of information about Iraq.

So we're left with the question that everyone has asked: if the U.S. knew that the Iraqi's did not have weapons of mass destruction (and I would like to give my own government the credit of assuming that if the Washington Post figured it out, they did too) then why, oh why did we go into Iraq? Why, oh why did we piss off the entire world, blow untold billions of dollars and waste thousands of American and Iraqi lives? I have had this conversation several times with a friend who is as far on the right side of the political spectrum as I am on the left and neither of us could come up with a good answer. He was the one who said it might have had something to do with Bush's daddy issues. I've always hated that argument. This was not the call of one man. It was the call of a very powerful, checked and balanced government. Others have said it was about removing a dictator. I want those people to take one quick glance at Africa and, frankly, parts of South America and tell me that there were not dozens of far more interesting and dangerous dictators to choose from at the time. A few of the very dumb people have argued that it was about oil. No, dears, our Middle Eastern oil comes from the Gulf, primarily Saudi Arabia and our relationship with those countries has never faltered. Even more importantly, if a country is selling you oil, Foreign Policy 101 says you keep up a healthy economic relationship. You do not overthrow its government to attempt to steal it. Oil is less expensive than war.

So why?

A few days ago, the first logical answer to that question that I have ever heard was presented to me. Apparently, crazy and genocidal though he was, Saddam Hussein was an intelligent leader. And, though he never traveled to the west, he was very western. Under his leadership, the source says, Iraq was taking off economically. And not because of oil, which would have kept it tied to its consumers (thats us). I am told, that had Iraq not been invaded in 2003, today it would be in a better economic position than Brazil. It would be a true and independent economic power in the Middle East. Maybe the only one.

So what if- my potentially crazy source and I ask- what if the United States invaded Iraq in order to remove the threat of a real economic competitor in the Middle East. Before you write the idea off as conspiracy theory, think about it. Why would the U.S. not want an economically powerful Arab state that did not depend on the U.S. to exist? Can't think of any reasons? I'll toss out a few. Israel. Oil. al-Queda. Considering it yet?

Like I said, I'm waiting on hard evidence that Iraq was taking off economically when we went in. I'll publish it as soon as I have it. But I will probably never be able to get my hands on anything more than that.

So let me finish by saying this. In journalism school we have an argument. (The article linked above deals with it a little bit) We know that American and western reporters work within certain boundaries. Essentially, if something is going to sound crazy the public, they won't print it, even if it is a good story and they have evidence. Because they don't want to become "that crazy news source that prints crazy stuff that we Americans don't think could be true." So, in journalism school, the question becomes- who sets the norm? Is it the public or is it the reporters themselves by only reporting on the things that they know will sell newspapers? Who knows. What I do know is this: when you leave the U.S., and come to a place that looks at the same historical events, only from the other side of history, your perception changes. Things that would not seem possible in the U.S., thanks to our ideas (either created by or reinforced by every single thing we have seen and heard from media and government sources that we trust) suddenly do seem possible. For example, I got a map in Syria of the region. The land that is recognized internationally as Israel was labeled Palestine. Not just the West Bank or Palestinian territory- the whole country. This is a map distributed to tourists in a nice hotel, not something a cab driver sketched for me. They have a completely different view on things that we accept unblinkingly as fact. And one can't help but ask, then, who's right?

So maybe this sounds like conspiracy to you. But leave behind your American mindset for a minute. Look at it logically, and come up with your own solution. If you can come up with a better answer to the giant "why?" posed above, please tell me what it is, because I sure as hell can't think of one.

Okay, I've rambled long enough. Thanks for reading.

Love you all,

Caddie

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Critical Mass

The way a nuclear bomb works is, in theory, horrifyingly simple. Essentially atoms of Uranium are suspended within the device. When the bomb is dropped an atom splits and sends three electrons flying off in different directions. These electrons then smack into other atoms of Uranium and split them. Each of these shattered atoms sends its own three electrons off to split more atoms. The result is a chain reaction during which everything in the bombs vicinity is anniheliated. Scientists call the moment when the reaction becomes impossible to control critical mass. 

Recently Queen Noor, the third and final wife of the late King Hussein of Jordan did an interview with Al Jazeera on international efforts on nuclear disarmament. In her opinion, and mine, we are living inside a political nuclear bomb. As more and more governments come closer and closer to nuclear capability we come closer and closer to the point where the possibility of a nuclear accident or terrorist attack becomes an inevitability. We are nearing our own critical mass, the point where the situation cannot be controlled. The queen, who is American, and Noor is not her real name, has some really valuable insights, I recommend reading the interview. Link is posted below. Love you all!

http://english.aljazeera.net/focus/2009/09/2009923101820169486.html
 

Monday, September 28, 2009

Wayfarer's world

I can now tell you from personal experience that there is a certain adrenaline rush to getting across international borders, particularly unfriendly ones. Its not fun, exactly. Actually, waiting for six hours in a croweded Syrian government building (they're about as nice as they sound like they would be) pretty much sucks. But when you're finally approved and allowed to pass the border into unfamiliar territory, there is definitely an adrenaline high.

It is my guess, that that high is what gave birth to today's backpacker, couch surfer, wayfarer generation. Most of you probably don't know what I mean. Apparently, there is a small contingent of international drifters that just float from country to country, continent to continent on the breath of whatever whim is carrying them that day. You meet them at bus stations, youth hostels, off-the-beaten-path-hole-in-the-wall restaurants that have the best food in the world, and pretty much anywhere the Lonely Planet guide book is sold. They're generally in their twenties, in college or holding a college degree, into studying language, culture and the unique selection of alcohol offered by each country. And they're always flat broke. They are the people that will happily throw a toothbrush, map and extra pair of jeans in a bag and spend three months hitchhiking through Asia with nothing else on them. They live on the rush of not necessarily knowing what country they'll be in tomorrow and definitely not two weeks from now.

There aren't very many of them out there. It takes a certain kind of person to leave the comforts of hot water and safe food to explore the world on a microscopic budget. At a hostel in Damascus a friend of mine who would definitely be classified as a wayfarer was flipping through a photo album of the hostel's previous guests and found a picture of a guy she had made friends with in Ethiopia when she was there teaching English last year. The backpacker's world is small, and they all are incredibly interesting and friendly so they tend to all know and keep in touch with one another.

I've done a lot of traveling for how young I am. I've visited something like 20 countries in the last 6 or 8 years. But up until this most recent trip to Syria and Lebanon, I've never understood the backpackers' way of seeing the world. I've met them, of course. They are all over college campuses and you run across them periodically at parties through friends of friends (they have a lot of friends, they like to have a geographically diverse array of couches to crash on when they need them). Unlike the backpackers, I've always traveled with family or a big group. I've always had money to stay in real hotels and see the sights that mainstream guide books say you can't miss. And I thought I was well traveled- I am well traveled. But I realized last week that if you travel with money you are not experiencing a country at all.

As a tourist you miss the real food they sell on the streets that might make you sick, but will taste so good its worth it. You miss the music and parties the locals throw when all the tourists have turned in for the night. But, most importantly, you miss the people. And a country isn't its great historical monuments, its finest restaurants, its beautiful scenery. A country is its people. So I'm sorry, but if you haven't taken an ancient bus from Nice to Venice and made friends with the Italian couple sitting next to you (which I haven't) you haven't seen Italy (good excuse to go back). If you haven't stayed in a hostel in Rio with the two expats who run the place, give tours and still manage to find time to make you breakfast in the morning, you haven't seen Brazil. If you haven't made friends with a undercover Syrian government agent (or some crazy dude who just says thats what he is) and had a deep and moving discussion about your people's misconceptions of his and his of yours, you haven't seen Syria. As a tourist, you don't have these experiences. As a backpacker, or wayfarer or whatever, you do.

You also meet other backpackers from all over the world who will, inevitably, invite you to visit them in their home countries, which, a true backpacker will inevitably do with very little notice or planning. Its a very cool way of life. Not necessarily the safest or smartest way of life, but very cool. It is definitely some thing I want to try after I graduate. I'm dying to see Africa and South America and I can't think of any way I can afford to do that without joining the wayfarer's world. I'm still looking for a travel partner if anyone's interested. I'll even let you choose the continent.

Love you all,
Caddie

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

For the Love of God

Please Note: This post is really long and goes into some of the details of Islam. If you don't want to finish it, please still skip down and read the last paragraph before signing off.

Also, since this blog is now linked to a public website, if you are an outside visitor please understand that, though I am the world's biggest champion of freedom of speech, rude, derogatory or inappropriate comments about Islam or any other faith are not welcome here and will be deleted. Exercise that freedom somewhere else.

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Let me begin by warning you that I am going crazy right now, because I have about 100 blog posts in my head, and every day there are a million new things to write about. I'm the luckiest reporter in the world. I have a definite audience, no deadlines or word limits, a whole under reported-on country at my fingertips, daily interviews with some of the best sources in that country and, best of all, no editor. So sorry if I go a little crazy and start posting three times a day. I can't help it.

Anyway, today's post is on Islam, but I have an even better post brewing. However, it still requires some research and I'm going on vacation for a couple days (see facebook status for further details) so that will have to wait til I get back. Stay tuned.

Okay Islam. The most distinct difference between Islam and Christianity and I think Hinduism too (I can't speak for Judism, because I don't know enough about it, but the books say its more like Islam) is that Christianity and Hinduism are systems of beliefs. The religions center your moral compass and guide your faith. Islam, on the other hand, is a way of life. They say the central question to Christians is "What do you believe?" To Muslims it is "What do you do?" This is very difficult to acurately describe, because I'm sure many of you who are both Hindu and Christian are now a little annoyed and thinking, "Hey, I live my religion. I'm a good person, I pray before meals, I go to church or temple, I've read the Bible or the Gitas." And thats all true. I don't mean to say that you aren't good practicioners of your respective religions, at all. What I mean is that the way you practice Islam is inherently different from the way you practice other religions. Its requirements are different and its teachings are different. And in many ways this accounts for why the Middle East is the way it is.

To really understand Islam, you have to think about its context. Islam came about in the desert about 1300 years ago. This was an eat or be eaten society. Every day was a fight to survive. Islam and the Prophet Muhammad's (peace be upon him) message was meant to give order and morality to these desert people. So while Christianity says "Hey, don't kill people and treat your neighbors as you would like to be treated," Islam literally seeks to reform society itself. You are not a good Muslim, your society is a good Muslim society. Islam lays down laws, rules for marraige, requirements of the individual and the community. And at the time it came about, many of these changes altered these desert peoples' lives for the better. So when Islam says that a woman can't travel without a male companion, we hear chauvanism. But think about it. How dangerous would it have been for a woman to travel alone or even for a few women to travel together across the desert 1300 years ago. That restriction was probably meant to keep fathers from selling their daughters to neighboring tribes and then sending the poor girl off to her new husband three hundred miles away alone on the back of a camel. (Islam also created laws that said the woman has to have a say in her own marraige, something that did not exist before.)

Another example: one of the five pillars of Islam is observance of the Holy Month of Ramadan (this year it is August 22-Sept. 22 so I'm getting a crash course in Ramadan righ now). During the Holy Month it is forbidden to eat, drink or smoke from sunrise to sunset. In Jordan it is illegal to eat or drink anything (including water) in public during this month. And people, almost everybody, actually, really do it. They all fast. It makes words like fanatic come to mind. But, again, think about it. The idea behind Ramadan is that everyone should know what it feels like to be poor, to have an empty belly. In addition every time your stomach growls you are supposed to think athat three times in the presence of a witness.bout God and show your committment to him by ignoring it. Its not so different from the Catholic's Lent. Actually, in practice its a lot like Christmas. All month stores close early so that people can spend more time with their families, everyone walks around saying Ramadan Karim which is Happy Ramadan, its all they sing about on the radio. Every night Iftar, the breaking of the fast, is a big family celebration. We have really gotten into this part of Ramadan, although most of us don't fast. Tonight the boys are making a few of my friends and I a macaroni and cheese Iftar. At the end of Ramadan is the Eid. It is one of the biggest festivals of the year.
The other pillars of Islam (requirements for being a true Muslim) are that you must give 2% of your total wealth to the poor each year, that you must pray five times a day, that you must, once in your life, make a pilgrimage to the holy city of Mecca and that you must believe that "There is no god, but God and Muhammad is his prophet." Actually, all it takes to become a Muslim is to say But, again, these aren't just requirements, they are a way of living. I spoke to one girl who says that the prayer is like both yoga and meditation for her. If she misses a prayer she feels physically tired, achy and may even get headaches. It is a time for quiet reflection and peace during the day. The haj (pilgrimage to Mecca) is a great right of passage. Maybe like a graduation ceremony for us. For those that are very poor this might be their only opportunity to travel at all.
Jihad is another part of living Islam. In the west that is a word we have come to fear. It has been ruined by the politicians and the media (yes, we are more guilty than anyone. No one checks facts anymore). To clear the record, each person is responsible for their own Jihad, which means holy struggle, not holy war.
There are three levels of Jihad. The first and most important is the personal struggle to be a good Muslim. As you can see from above, that isn't easy to do. You're constantly looking for places to pray and starving your self one twelfth of the year. But its more than that. Muslims leave their lives completely in the hands of God. I don't know about Hindus, but I know Christians say they do that too. But really, we don't. We say "oh, if you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans." and "I know God has a plan for me" and we believe that. But in an abstract sense. We make our plans anyway and fully expect to execute them. Muslims don't. They don't expect to carry out their plans, and if they do it is because it was the will of God. One of my professors today told us that we have a test next week and followed that sentence up with, Insa Allah, which means, if that is the will of God. Meaning if it isn't, don't plan on taking the quiz.
The second level of the Jihad struggle is to struggle toward being a good Muslim community. Everyone gives of their wealth, no one has sex outside of marraige, etc. It goes deeper than that, but I don't really know all the values and standards they hold themselves too- oh, no drinking alcohol, ever. Thats one I forgot. Anyway, you get the idea.
Finally, Jihad means a stuggle to protect your community from outside invasion that threatens it. I would guess this is why the 18th and 19th century imperialists always found it hard to colonize the Arab world. Islam was having none of that. This is the part of Jihad that gets perverted by terrorist factions. They justify what they are doing as an act for God. That is bullshit and any good Muslim will tell you that. Worse, terrorist groups that use Islam as justification are twisting God's words to achieve their own ends. Definitely haram. This is a very important distinction. Peace is paramount to Islam. In Arabic goodbye is ma salam which translates directly to 'go with peace.' Around Islam, at least in Jordan is a peace loving culture. If you ask me, not that you did, many of the problems in the Middle East develop out of two distinct characteristics of these countries. 1. Islam, which was laid out to, and was hugely successful in improving and stabalizing life for tiny impoverished tribes living in the desert over a millenium ago has never been successfully readapted to fit into the modern context. This is not to say that they are not trying to do that. They are, but they disagree about how to do it and so it hasn't happened yet. And 2. there is no democracy and at this point any attempt to establish a democracy is going to turn out looking a lot like Iraq.
Sorry, I know that was really long, but I felt like I should get it all out there. After two years of studying Islam on the side, this is the accumulation of my knowledge. If you have questions, though, post them and I'll ask my professors for the answers. In the U.S. we are taught not to ask questions about religion, but that isn't the case most places in the world. The truth is that our faiths are a huge part of our identity and for many of us they really define how we live our lives. They are something to share and celebrate, not avoid. It is important for us to understand the different religions in the world because it helps us understand the people behind them and the lives they live. So to that end, I have a proposal: I actually know for a fact that there are Roman Catholics, Protestants, Hindus, a former Buddhist and possibly Jews reading this blog, which is very very cool. So if you feel the urge, post a response with a little insight into your faith (I'm serious about this, so if you don't know how to post email or facebook me what you would like to say and I will post it for you). I know I'm not the only one who would love to read it.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Middle Eastern Myth Buster

Hi everyone!

As expected, internet is a rare and elusive commodity in Jordan. My roommate and I are paying an arm and a leg to get a shotty connection from a dial up drive that we have to share in our apartment. But, not being able to post for the last couple of days has given me time to do enough first hand research to shut down a few of the middle eastern stereotypes we are fed in the U.S. Here are some of the facts on the big myths.

1. Myth: All Middle Eastern countries are dangerous.

Fact: Okay, this is only part myth. There are lots of ways to die in Jordan. You can get hit by a car or develop a degenerative disease. You can fall down the stairs, die in childbirth or drown. Actually, I take that last one back. You can't drown in Jordan. There isn't enough water. The point is that the Middle East isn't dangerous, the world is dangerous. Jordan is actually pretty safe. In fact, the life expectancy rate in Jordan is actually higher than it is in the U.S. No joke. Check the CIA world factbook.

On our second day of orientation we were taken to the U.S. embassy for a security briefing. They expained that if we do drugs or insult the king and get caught that they can't get us out of jail and that if we die while we are here, statistics say it will be at the hands of a cab driver and his weapong of choice: his cab. So don't jaywalk. Then they let us go. Never did they mention a single word like political unrest, terrorism, car bombs, jihadists, al-Queda or any of the other vocab words we associate with the Middle East. I know many of you have been worrying about my safety, so I wanted to put this myth to rest first. I'm very safe in Jordan. And you would be too, if you came to visit me. Which I would love. You could have my bed, I would take the couch... just an idea. : )

2. Myth: It is very difficult being a woman in the Middle East.

Fact: It is very hot being a woman in the Middle East. Muslim women, especially during the holy month of Ramadan, which we are in the thick of right now, cover their hair, legs and arms. I imagine they are very hot, because as a member of the other group - non-muslim women (which includes men both inside and outside the Islamic faith and women of all other faiths) I am expected to cover my legs, shoulders, midriff and chest and I am hot. However, covering ones extremities is a requirement of Islam, not Jordanian law and non-conservative Muslim women may not choose to follow it. Beyond that, Jordanian (and I suspect many Arab women) are not more oppressed than women are in the U.S. They drive cars, hold jobs, go to college... It isn't safe for women to walk alone at night and we do have to be more aware of our surroundings than men. Annoying? Obviously. An exlusively Middle Eastern problem? Definitely not. Actually, in my experience that's pretty much true for women anywhere in the world.

That said, it actually seems to be harder for men in Jordan. There is a lot of distrust of men. In some restaurants men have to be accompanied by a woman or they will not be seated. This is becasue if too many men begin to hang out in an establishment, families and women will begin to feel uncomfortable and will stop going there. It was also much harder for my program to place men with homestay families than women, because many Jordanians don't feel comfortable inviting a strange single man to live in their homes.

3. Myth: Arabs are angry, crazy, evil, or just simply hate Americans.

Fact: Knowing that my dad is reading this, I do have a disclaimer on this myth bust. I absolutely can't generalize every person in the Arab world. There are 22 Arab countries (I'll bring home a special present for the first person that can name them all in a comment on this post. Hint: Afghanistan is not one of them) and over 300 million Arabs. There is certainly no way to accurately describe them all. I'm sure there are angry, crazy, evil American haters living in the Arab world. But, if there are, I haven't met them yet.

The first person that I met in Jordan was the man working at the money exchange counter at the immigration lobby in the Amman airport. It was three a.m. I had never even seen a Jordanian dinar in my whole life and there wasn't an ATM in sight. Immigration was not going to let me through customs into the main airport where there were ATMs without a visa, which cost $10 dinar and they only took cash. I was freaking out. The money exchange guy was calm, sweet, patient and in his best broken English directed me to an ATM through a side door where I could get cash. Then there was the guy at the tiny shop where I bought my phone cards who patiently explained to me three times, again in broken English, how the cards worked and to program them. When I still couldn't figure it out, he programed them for me. Ahmed, my apartment building guard spent his entire afternoon yesterday trying different remotes to find one that worked for my TV. This was after he hung my shower curtain and helped me learn to work the stove. None of this is in his job description. The cab drivers are hilarious and the Jordanian student interns in the CIEE program are sweet and excited to meet American students. To a Jordanian, I have learned, being a guest in their country isn't any different than being a guest in their house. Which means that they don't give you a hard time about being lost, or American or unable to speak Arabic beyond a few pathetic, mispronounced sentances. They are kind, patient, respectful and welcoming. They say "Ahlan wa Salan" over and over, which means, "You are so so welcome here." They want to know where you are from, whether you like their country, and always, if there is anything they can do to help you.

And this isn't just Jordanians. The Saudi Arabian English teacher I sat next to on the plane wrote down all his favorite restaurants in Amman for me. Ala, one of our student interns is Palestinian and reminds me of my little sister because she is like sunshine in human form.

The point is Arabs are not evil people. They have evil people. They have their Timothy McVeys and their Senator McCarthys and their Travis Clebolts. Who doesn't? Who among us can claim to belong to a society that has not produced a few psychotic sociopaths? The Arabs that I have met so far are a lot friendlier than some of the people I met in India, a lot less stuck up than many of the people I met in Europe and a lot less scary than the people I met in New York. It honestly hurts me now to think of the way that so many Americans percieve them. Its not our fault. September 11th was nearly 8 years ago now and when my program director mentioned it in her welcoming speech to a room of American students the excited whispering died and the room went silent. It still hurts. And all we've seen on TV and in the news for the last 8 years have been images of angry Arabs, crazy leaders promising to, "wipe Israel off the map," and insurgents attacking our soldiers. I get it. But, I'm here, living, working and interacting with "them" and I'm telling you, we're wrong. Most Arabs don't walk around all day hating us, or plotting ways to attack us. There are good people in the Middle East. A lot of them. And if nothing else, they are taking very good care of me right now while I am a long way from home. So if you can't give them anything else on my word alone, give them that.

I'll write again soon! Love you all.

Caddie

Monday, August 31, 2009

Amman, Jordan

Hi everyone! I arrived in Amman at 3 a.m. this morning local time. I've been awake for about 3 hours so I really have nothing to report so far, but I wanted to let everyone know that I got in okay. Check back in the next couple of days for a real post. Love you all!

Caddie

Friday, August 14, 2009

Thoughts on H1N1 and What I Love about India

I would like to begin this blog post by ranting for just a minute or two about the H1N1 virus. This is my official request to the entire world to just chill out. The H1N1 virus is (I'm going to write this very clearly so everyone follows) the.... flu. As in, it happens every year. And every year people die of the flu. In fact, most years more people die of the flu. I've actually heard the number of deaths this year in comparison to the number of cases described as "laughable." Now, of course, when people are dying, it is not laughable. It is horrible. But it is not something for the whole world to freak out about either. By freak out I mean if one kid sneezes the whole school does not need to be quarantined (which has actually happened here).

Indians are particularly scared about the "swine flu." This is extremely annoying since they've only had about 1000 cases in the last three months. From what I hear, the U.S. has had about 45,000 cases. Now, I'm all for being careful. By all means, take your vitamin C, drink lots of fluids, wash your hands before eating, even buy one of those stupid masks if it helps you sleep at night. But when my cousin is so paranoid that she tells me not to open my mouth while we're shopping in a busy market because she's afraid I'll get infected, things have just gone too far. How am I supposed to fight with this nice man about the price of this skirt if I can't open my mouth?

So here, I make my request. Please, people, chill out.

About 4 or 5 months ago when H1N1 first came into our lives there were about 7 billion people living on the planet. Less than 1200 of them have died of the swine flu. In that same amount of time many, many more have died in car accidents, from malaria, protesting their governments, in drive by shootings... So, if you insist on being the kind of person who lives in constant fear of death, at least break up the day a little by worrying about some things you might actually die from.

And in the meantime, keep in mind that a very great man (I can't actually remember which one right now and I don't feel like looking it up. I think it was one of the Roosevelts) but nevertheless a very great man did once tell us that, "We have nothing to fear, but fear itself." And a particularly brilliant journalism student once wrote in her blog that, "Though the brave may not live forever, the cautious do not live at all."

So, my dear friends and family, put down your newspapers that hype up everything in order to get you to renew your subscriptions, take off your face masks and come outside. If you've been hiding from H1N1 you have been missing a truly beautiful summer.

Second of all:

Since this will be my very last post from India, and as this country has completely won my heart, it seems appropriate to say a few words in India's honor.

A few weeks ago, I would have given almost anything for a slice of pizza and a hot, spider-free shower. I missed American English, cars with the drivers seat on the left side where it belongs and my parents. Traveling to a developing country outside of the West is unbelievably different from traveling to Canada or Europe. As a result, I'm afraid that some of my earlier posts here may have given you the wrong idea. Worse, I'm afraid that some or all of you may have decided that India is a place you'll probably never want to visit based on what you've read here. I'm going to do everything I can in this post to change that, because not to come to India at some point in your life to would be to miss out on one of the most amazing experiences you'll ever have. I love you all and I don't want that on my conscience, so please, based on what you are about to read, reconsider.

To a westerner, India is, first and foremost, shocking. No pictures, imported goods, text books, documentaries or blogs of snotty college students can possibly prepare you for the real thing, up close. But Indians talk about their country like she is a person, and as you get to know India you realize why. When she decides you're ready she begins to show you sides of herself that are not only shockingly beautiful, but that would be entirely impossible to experience in a developed country. One day you go for a hike because you need to get out and hiking reminds you of home and when you arrive at the top of the mountain panting and turn around you think you must have actually died on the way up because no place on earth could possibly be this beautiful. Or a little boy who you can't even communicate with well enough to learn his name because he doesn't speak a word of English and you don't speak a word of Tamil decides he's going to make friends with you anyway. Or a woman who is so poor that she literally built her one room house with her own hands invites you in and offers you tea just because you were passing by. And then you're hooked. These were my "oh, wow" moments. If you make the trip, you'll have your own.

So, in an effort to either change your mind or reaffirm your decision about visiting India, here is a list of the things about this country that I have fallen in love with. I hope you'll make me a list of what yours were when you get home from your trip.

I love you all and I'll write again from Jordan

Caddie



What I love about India:

1. The way the sun glows red at sunrise

2. Bright green birds

3. How people don't run when it rains, they hold out their arms thanking God for the relief from the heat

4. Naan (Indian bread), Burfi (Indian sweet)

5. The markets

6. The way that people press their palms together, bow and say "namaste" instead of shaking hands

7. Exploring temples barefoot (they make you leave your shoes outside out of respect)

8. The flowers

10. Tiny hand carved stone elephants

11. The journalism

12. Mango

13. Silks in colors I never knew existed

14. Yoga

15. Monkeys that sit on the roofs of produce stands waiting for a chance to steal fruit

16. The accent of Indians who aren't quite fluent in English

17. How Indians believe that everything from dry skin to a broken toe can be cured with healing oils


18. The red dust they rub on your forehead at temples

19. Fighting with shop owners over 50 cents as if it were $100 (Actual conversation: Me: "I'll give you 1000 rupies." Sales guy:"This very nice, handmade! I can't loose money! I'll give you for 1050 rupies. Special price for you." Me: "Are you crazy? I'll leave right now!")

20. Indian music

21. The mountains

22. Pondicherry

23. The complete lack of pretension in Indian culture that allows Indians to tell you exactly what they're thinking, exactly when they're thinking it

24. Orissa dancing

25. Snake charmers

27. Indian architecture, especially the wide, sloping arches and domes


28. The attention to detail

29. Fresh juice from any kind of fruit, especially watermelon, plum and mango

30. Four meals a day instead of three


31. Women in saris carrying loads two or three time their own size on their head

32. The Indian belief that God lives in each person

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Pictures from the Mountains- Finally!




Mom and baby monkey by the side of the road in Manali




Giant spider in my bathtub
Me with Mumtha at her house
One of the gift baskets I made for Mumtha's women's products. They farm, harvest and refine local fruits and plants then sell them so that they can have some financial independence. Pakaging the products as gift baskets makes them a little more expensive, bringing in more money for the women.






This is a village temple and meditation spot on a hillside in Manali. Parents bring their babies here before they are 15 mos old to shave their heads. It's good luck for the baby or something.



White water rafting















Hmmm... what is this plant? It grows all over in the mountains.





Waterfall in Manali that I hiked up to